More from Surfer

Surfer4 min read
The Art of Being Seen
Many surfers fetishize the past. We look at photos of uncrowded Malibu in the ‘50s, the Rincon cove before it was fronted by a six-lane highway, and think, “Yep, those were the days.” Even those of us who weren’t actually alive then—probably especial
Surfer1 min read
Lower Trestles, California
At 7 p.m. on April 7, California State Parks closed off access to Trestles—just one of many typically-overrun breaks around the world to have its access restricted to curb the spread of COVID-19. This photo, taken by photographer Pat Stacy shortly af
Surfer1 min readPsychology
The Greatest Escape
Talk to virtually any mental health expert and they’ll bring up two of the easiest things to do to boost optimism, reduce stress and anxiety, and alleviate depression: Get outdoors and get some exercise. It’s really that simple. Surfing can be your t

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