Surfer

Andy, According to Kelly

The rivalry between Kelly Slater and Andy Irons in the 2000s is the stuff of legend. The two competitive surf titans were seen as diametrically, cosmically opposed. Their conflict was presented as light vs. dark, establishment vs. vanguard, “I love you, man” vs. “My whole driving force right now is to take his little pretty picture and just crush it.”

Today, however, we know it wasn’t quite so black and white. The recent documentary, “Andy Irons: Kissed by God,” delves into the tumultuous life of the Hawaiian three-time World Champion and sheds light on his fiery clash with Slater. In his interview for the film, which spanned five hours and included more than a few tears, Slater described the rivalry as more nuanced than what the outside world perceived. He sees it as a relationship that pushed them both to extreme highs and lows, and one that evolved over the years into a unique kind of friendship.

Below, you’ll find excerpts from the sprawling interview done by one of the film’s directors, Todd Jones, highlighting the friction and eventual friendship that altered the course of both Slater and Irons’ storied careers.

What was your first-ever memory of, or encounter with, Andy? When did you become aware of Andy Irons?

I can’t remember when I first met Andy because he didn’t jump off the page at me. I think in his amateur career he was good, but he didn’t strike me as outstanding. In that way I would almost say he was a late bloomer. When he turned pro, he got so good and so confident so fast. All of a

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfer

Surfer13 min read
Warriors Of The Bight
“WE WON.” The text message was to the point. “WON WHAT?” I replied. It was early morning. “THE BIGHT. THE NORWEGIANS HAVE FUCKED OFF.” The message from my surfing associate down in the Great Australian Bight took a minute to sink in. Huge if true. Ha
Surfer1 min readPsychology
The Greatest Escape
Talk to virtually any mental health expert and they’ll bring up two of the easiest things to do to boost optimism, reduce stress and anxiety, and alleviate depression: Get outdoors and get some exercise. It’s really that simple. Surfing can be your t
Surfer4 min read
The Art of Being Seen
Many surfers fetishize the past. We look at photos of uncrowded Malibu in the ‘50s, the Rincon cove before it was fronted by a six-lane highway, and think, “Yep, those were the days.” Even those of us who weren’t actually alive then—probably especial

Related Books & Audiobooks