Surfer

Dave Wassel, 45

“When I was a kid I’d get that same rush at Kailua Beach Break, then I’d have to get it at Pipe, then the outer reefs, and now we go to Pe'ahi for it. The size of the waves change, but the thrill has always been the same.”

—it’s very user-friendly now. It’s gone from being a very rural place to a very commercial place, and people realized that one wave can make or break your career. But I love it when people come here to surf. I want to see it. I want to be impressed by good surfing. But at

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