Wisdom
“This is the best time to be a surfer. Depending on what country you’re in, you can really ride whatever. That wasn’t the case back in the day.”
Listen to everything they say because you’re gonna be in the same place one day. Twenty years go by like that [snaps fingers]. I remember seeing Woody Brown at Mala when he was in his 90s. I was going to surf and he was on the beach. I ran over and said, “Woody! Let’s go!” and he goes, “You go! I’ll just watch.” I didn’t get it then, but I get it
