Surfer

ONCE AND FUTURE KINGS

Source: Kelly Slater, behind the peak, both in years and on this wave, but still somewhere way ahead of the curve.

John Florence, eyeballs glued firmly on the future.

JF:This whole place is so pristine. There’s nothing here. It’s so refreshing. When you get in the ocean, there are no phones or anything like that. You get away from people and the nonsense of Instagram and whatever else is distracting. I like that. I wake up every day and all I think about is surfing.

I can’t just jump in the water and feel totally relaxed. If I’ve got things I’ve got to do, then I need to get those done to fully enjoy my surfing. But some of the things are creative things, so you can’t force yourself to be creative. The business side can’t move along until you get the creative things

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