Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Written by Peter Heller

Narrated by Mike Chamberlain

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors, recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.



Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.



As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords listeners vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Tantor Media, Inc
• Release date: Mar 15, 2016
• ISBN: 9781515974246

Peter Heller

Peter Heller is an award-winning adventure writer and long-time contributor to NPR. He is a contributing editor at Outside magazine and National Geographic Adventure and the author of Hell or High Water: Surviving Tibet's Tsangpo River. He lives in Denver, Colorado. He can be reached at PeterHeller.net.

[Kyle womack · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

I loved it! Inspiring journey and such a great read, makes me want to go surf!

[Marissa Glover · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

Incredible memoir of the trials of learning how to surf. As someone just starting at the age of 30, I can't help but be inspired to work my ass off to achieve the same goal. To get barreled is the ultimate dream, and this book has me frothing to achieve it.

[luv4fairies · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

If you're from a coastal state but stuck further in land without a daily tide fix then this well written novel will be as much as an emotional rollercoaster for you as it was for me.
If you need a reminder of just how badly we need to defend our oceans then read this book.

[librolindsay · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

Quite possibly the best book I could have picked for sitting around for two days on jury duty. It is so easy to get lost in Heller's adventures--I laughed and cried (AWKWARD WHEN IT HAPPENS IN THE JURY WAITING ROOM) throughout the whole thing. There were times I found him quite a bit of a jerkface towards his girlfriend/wife, even more so than the moments he actually acknowledged it, but she was also clearly fine putting up with it. Despite that, I loved all the heroes and asswipes they met along their journey down Mexico's Pacific coast and how he slowly began to pick up on surfing tips. I loved his environmental vignettes, no matter how horrifying they were, and it has certainly piqued my curiosity to learn even more about sea life and what I can do to help (I may have to put my craving for fish on hiatus for a while). It's hard not to find poetry in the ocean, and Heller takes it with gusto. Excuse me while I lose myself in youtube videos of the Mexican Pipeline....

[kenno82 · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

This book really nails the brief... keeps the surfing dream alive for all of us that just want to pack up the bags, hit the beach and learn how to surf.

[grandpahobo_1 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

This is a beautifully told story of the author (and his girlfriend/wife) spending six months learning to surf, mostly in Mexico.

The author paints a vivid picture of each of the places they go and of the people they meet. It reminded me of the books written by Theodore Roosevelt about his adventures in the Bad Lands of Wyoming.

You don't need to be a surfing fanatic to enjoy this book (I'm not). It does help to be a little familiar with the sport and the "lingo".

[zmagic69 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

The back of the book says it all. This is a story of a mid forties man learning about Love. His love for his girlfriend, who becomes his wife, and the changes he needs to make of himself. It is also a love story of the outdoors, in this case a love of the Ocean. Finally it is a story of a man who takes up surfing at this late stage and how it becomes an obsession. WARNING!!! If you love animals especially Whales and Dolphins, then be prepared to become OUTRAGED by what is described in the chapter called THE COVE. I loved this book.

[frederikv_3 · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

"Surfing is an addiction". It is impossible not to believe Peter Heller when he writes this simple statement, after having read him describing several months of his quest to become a surfer. He takes his reader along on a journey from California south deep into Mexico, all the while truthfully describing his progress on the surfboard.

The book is about a 40-something who decides to become a true surfer in 6 months: from novice to surfing big, fast waves in only half a year. To that end, he travels with his girlfriend from surfspot to surfspot along the Pacific coast, and meets several interesting characters along the way.

If you've ever wanted or actually tried to surf, or if you can admire someone's dedication to achieve a challenging goal, this book should be a good pick for you.

[yogimarley · Rating: 4 out of 5 stars]

Overall this was a good book. I've been a surfer for 10 years and he does a great job of describing the diffuculty of trying to learn the sport. The book is true to its title, alot of the descriptions are "kook-ish"--almost to the point of becoming annoying. I enjoyed the book as more of a quest than an actual surfing documentary. Personally, Daniel Duane's "Caught Inside" does a better job of describing surfing, without becoming cliche. Overall, I'm inspired by Heller's attempt to do this at 48. I think the big take-away for me is that never let assumptions keep you from trying differant things. Not too many people would consider trying this "young" persons sport after 40, much less on a short-board--in Baja, Mexico--during large winter swells. Heller finds others that have attempted the same thing, including a French-Canadian in his 60's. I admire his attitude and I will attempt the same approach to various areas in my life.

[terbby · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

I would call this a book about a quest. On one level it's about the author's quest to learn to surf at age 47. On another it's a journey of self-discovery, and an autobiography; and it's a travel story. In the end the author claims success on all levels; self-serving but believable because of the skill in explaining the basis for the conclusion. The author and his girlfriend set out on a six month adventure pursuing his (but not her) goal of successfully riding a big wave after starting at zero experience and travels all over California and Mexico in the process. He reveals aspects of his personality along the way, strengths and weakness. Overcoming a selfish preoccupation with his quest he marries the girlfriend and begins to appreciate her sacrifices; but still continues the quest and does manage to ride his big wave in the stated time. Along the way we are treated to a colorful cast of characters from the elite of the surfing world and it becomes apparent that one of the author's strengths is the ability to enlist these diverse personalities in his cause. All in all a thoroughly enjoyable read and one is left wanting more from this articulate writer.