Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood: Beautiful Things to Make in a Weekend, Including Ready-to-Use Plans & Patterns
By Alan Bridgewater, Gill Bridgewater, Mike McGrath and
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About this ebook
Alan Bridgewater
Gill and Alan Bridgewater have gained an international reputation as producers of highly successful gardening and DIY books on a range of subjects, including garden design, ponds and patios, stone and brickwork, decks and decking, and household woodworking. They have also contributed to several international magazines. Alan and Gill live in Rye, East Sussex.
Read more from Alan Bridgewater
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Book preview
Making Practical Backyard Projects in Wood - Alan Bridgewater
PROJECTS:
Birds, Bats, Bees & Butterflies
Stylish Birdhouse
BY BARRY MCKENZIE
With its classically shingled roof and brilliant, stylized chip carving, you might be hesitant to hang this birdhouse outdoors. But the project is weather resistant, and returning songbirds will reward your generosity with their cheerful presence.
The birdhouse is fairly simple to construct. The bottom of the house has a gate hook to keep the hinged front from being opened by a predator or pushed out by too much nesting material inside. The roof is at a 12-degree slope for water run-off, and the shingles, while easy to carve, make an impressive display.
Use basswood, butternut, or white cedar; more dense wood is difficult to chip carve. The dimensions of this project will change if you use wood thinner than ¾" (1.9cm).
The hinged front panel opens for easy cleaning and secures with a simple gate hook.
Tools and Materials
•Pencil
•Chip carving knife
•Gouge of choice
•Ruler
•Assorted paintbrushes
•Basswood‚ ¾ (1.9cm) thick: bottom, 4
x 5" (10.2 x 12.7cm) (A)
•Basswood‚ ¾ (1.9cm) thick: rear, 5
x 8 15 / 16 " (12.7 x 22.7cm) (B)
•Basswood‚ ¾ (1.9cm) thick: front, 5
x 77 / 8 " (12.7 x 24.5cm) (C)
•Basswood‚ ¾ (1.9cm) thick: sides, 5½
x 8 15 / 16 (64.8 x 22.7cm) (D), top angles from 77 / 8
(20cm) up to 8 15 / 16 " (22.7cm)
•Basswood‚ ¾ (1.9cm) thick: roof, 7
x 8 15 / 16 " (17.8 x 129.4cm) (E)
•Wooden dowel‚ ¼– 5 / 16
(6–8mm)-dia.: 2 each 1" (2.5cm) long, (F); Do not glue in place
•Gatehook set: 2" (5.1cm) long
•Glue: exterior weather-resistant
•Dark acrylic paint of choice
•Finish‚ such as exterior spar urethane
•Graphite paper
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
•Drill holes for dowels at least ½" (1.3cm) deep.
•Place the two hinge dowels in the front piece before assembling.
•The dowels can be up to ⁵⁄16" (8mm) dia.
•To accommodate the latch, the sides are not flush with the bottom part (A).
•The top of the front piece (C) has rounded edges to clear the underside of the roof when you swing it open.
1. Divide the roof into rows. Draw six horizontal lines, 1 (2.5cm) apart, across the width of the roof to make seven rows of shingles. Make a deep stop cut along these lines with a chip carving knife. The cuts should be between 1/16
(2mm) and ⅛" (3mm) deep.
2. Taper the shingles. Use a gouge of your choice to remove wood up to the vertical cuts made in Step 1. Taper the shingles so it looks like the lower shingle disappears beneath the edge of the one above it. Feel free to deepen the stop cut as you go. Work across each row before moving on to the next. The depth is up to you.
3. Divide the rows into shingles. Each row of shingles is staggered in relation to the row above it. Start with a shingle width of about ¾" (1.9cm), and vary the width from there. Do not make every shingle the same width. Cut along these lines with the chip carving knife to divide the rows into individual shingles.
4. Outline the thickness of the shingles. Carve a line along the bottom and sides of the shingles to represent the thickness. This gives the illusion that each shingle is individually carved. Since each row is tapered, it will look like the individual shingles are tapered. Do not sand the shingles smooth.
5. Mount the gate hook. Screw the eyelet into the front (C) just below the bottom (A). Do not screw the eyelet in completely; that way, you can adjust the fit of the hook after you attach it to the bottom (A). Screw the hook in place, and test the fit. If the hook fits loosely, tighten the eyelet screwed into the front (C) until the hook holds tightly.
6. Chip carve the design. Transfer the design to the painted birdhouse using light-colored graphite paper. Cut along one side of the pattern line, angling the knife in so the cut ends at the center of the chip to be removed. Flip the birdhouse around and cut in toward the center from the other side to free the chip. Make sure the lines are smooth and even.
CHIP TIP
The type of chip carving in this project is called stylized free-form,
which is not as precise as geometric chip carving. Chip carving through paint does have a tendency to dull the knife’s cutting edge a little faster, so I strop more often. You could easily carve the design in shallow relief, if desired.
BIRDHOUSE BASICS
•I didn’t add a perch because predators tend to use the perch more often than the songbirds. I have seen nesting birds fly straight into the hole and exit the same way.
•The location of the birdhouse should be as far as 100 feet away from other competitive birds. Even self-nesting birds will be harassed by a bluebird if they are using a birdhouse nearby.
•Clean out the birdhouse in early spring before the migrating birds return. Before opening the birdhouse, make sure nobody has taken up residence. I have seen several bluebirds share a birdhouse over a mild winter. I also have one flying squirrel that has made a permanent home in one of my birdhouses. It was a big surprise to both of us when I tried to clean out the bedding material and found a wide-eyed flying squirrel looking back at me!
Bird Feeder
BY JON DECK
Any time is a great time to provide wild birds much-needed nutrition as natural supplies grow scarce. With four seed hoppers, this feeder holds a large amount of food for winter feeding, and lets you offer a variety of seed mixes to attract more species to your backyard year-round.
This project requires basic scrolling skills, but the woodworking aspects can be a bit of a challenge. It’s important that the components are measured and cut with care for a good fit during assembly. I recommend cutting all the hopper face layers (plywood, hardboard, and acrylic) on a table saw for accurate panels. The feeder must bear up to the elements, so materials should be rated for exterior use. When called for, allow adequate painting and drying time between those steps before moving on. Plastic milk jugs make perfect seamless seed hoppers and let you recycle in a rather unique way.
All of the ½ (or 1.3cm) plywood parts can be cut from a single 24
by 48" (61cm by 1.2m) sheet. Follow the measured drawing and parts list (here) and lay out all your measurements carefully with a square.
Tools and Materials
•Exterior plywood, ½ (1.3cm) thick: 24
x 48" (61cm x 1.2m)
•Pine, 1x2: 72" (1.8m) long
•Pine, 1x6: 48" (1.2m) long
•Tempered hardboard, ⅛ (3mm) thick: 24 x 48
(61cm x 1.2m)
•Clear acrylic plastic, 2mm thick: 18 x 24
(45.7 x 61cm)
•Plastic jugs: 4 each, one gallon
•Dowels: 3 / 16 (5mm)-dia. x 18
(45.7cm), ½ (1.3cm)-dia. x 48
(1.2m)
•Large wooden finial
•Screws, exterior: 1 ¼, 2½
(3.2, 6.4cm)
•Screws, lath: 9 / 16 " (1.4cm)
•Nails, 18 gauge: ⅝, 1¼
(1.6, 3.2cm)
•Glue: exterior wood, cyanoacrylate (CA)
•Wood filler, exterior
•Caulk,
