Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Eswatini

By Lucy Corne, Narina Exelby, Mary Fitzpatrick and 5 more

Lonely Planet's South Africa, Lesotho and Eswatini is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the region has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Spot wildlife in Kruger National Park and visit the cape ; all with your trusted travel companion.

Inside Lonely Planet's South Africa, Lesotho and Eswatini Travel Guide:

Lonely Planet's Top Picks- a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them

Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests
Local insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics

Eating and drinking-get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try

Toolkit- all of the planning tools for solo travellers, LGBTQIA+ travellers, family travellers and accessible travel

Colour maps and images throughout
Language- essential phrases and language tips

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Covers Cape Town, Western Cape, Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Free State, Johannesburg and Gauteng, Mpumalanga, Kruger National Park, Limpopo, North West Province, Northern Cape, Lesotho, Eswatini

eBook Features: (Best viewed on tablet devices and smartphones)

• Add notes to personalise your guidebook experience
• Seamlessly flip between pages
• Bookmarks and speedy search capabilities get you to key pages in a flash
• Embedded links to recommendations' websites
• Zoom-in on maps and images

About Lonely Planet:

Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travellers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Feb 1, 2025
• ISBN: 9781837587032

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South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini

MapHow To Use This eBook

CONTENTS

Plan Your Trip

South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini: The Journey Begins Here

South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Cape Town

Find Your Way

Plan Your Days

City Bowl, Foreshore, Bo-Kaap & De Waterkant

East City, District Six, Woodstock & Observatory

Gardens & Surrounds

Green Point & the Waterfront

Sea Point to Hout Bay

Southern Suburbs

Southern Peninsula

Blouberg Beach, Northern Suburbs & Cape Flats

Places We Love to Stay

Around Cape Town

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

West Coast

Beyond The West Coast

Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch Vineyards

Beyond Stellenbosch

Franschhoek and Paarl Wineries

The Overberg

Beyond The Overberg

Places We Love to Stay

Garden Route

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Mossel Bay

Beyond Mossel Bay

Wilderness

Knysna

Beyond Knysna

Plettenberg Bay

Beyond Plettenberg Bay

Places We Love to Stay

Eastern Cape

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Eastern Cape Hiking Trails

Storms River Village

Beyond Storms River Village

Gqeberha

Beyond Gqeberha

East London

Beyond East London

Chintsa

Beyond Chintsa

Graaff-Reinet

Beyond Graaff-Reinet

Matatiele

Beyond Matatiele

Places We Love to Stay

KwaZulu-Natal

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Game Reserves

Durban

Beyond Durban

Ballito

Beyond Ballito

iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Beyond iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Battlefields

South Coast

South Coast’s Beaches

Howick

Beyond Howick

The Drakensberg

Drakensberg Destinations

Places We Love to Stay

Free State

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Bloemfontein

Beyond Bloemfontein

Clarens

Beyond Clarens

Places We Love to Stay

Johannesburg & Gauteng

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Johannesburg

Beyond Johannesburg

Pretoria

Beyond Pretoria

Places We Love to Stay

Mpumalanga

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Mbombela

Beyond Mbombela

Hazyview

Beyond Hazyview

Places We Love to Stay

Kruger National Park

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Which Safari?

Skukuza

Beyond Skukuza

Letaba

Beyond Letaba

Places We Love to Stay

Limpopo

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Polokwane

Beyond Polokwane

Soutpansberg

Waterberg

Places We Love to Stay

North West Province

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Pilanesberg

Places We Love to Stay

Northern Cape

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Kimberley

The Kalahari

Namakwa & the Karoo

Places We Love to Stay

Arriving

Getting Around

Lesotho

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Maseru

Beyond Maseru

Semonkong

Beyond Semonkong

Places We Love to Stay

Arriving

Getting Around

eSwatini

Find Your Way

Plan Your Days

The Ezulwini Valley

Beyond The Ezulwini Valley

Hlane Royal National Park

Beyond Hlane Royal National Park

Places We Love to Stay

Arriving

Toolkit

How to Safari

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTQI+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Wildlife Conservation

Crime & Safety

Women Travellers

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of South Africa, Lesotho and eSwatini in 15 Places

Legacies of Protest Music in Cape Town

Mysticism & Memory in the Drakensberg’s San Rock Art

The iNcwala Ceremony

A Land Before Time

This Book

SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO & ESWATINI

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

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Kalahari Desert, Northern Cape | DEWALD KIRSTEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

If love at first sight exists, then this was it. I had been travelling for years – always ready for the next challenge, always planning the next trip – when South Africa stopped me in my tracks. Here was a place I wanted to linger. South Africa certainly appeals to those with eternally itchy feet, for there is so much variety within its borders. You could be seeking a chilled beach holiday with fine dining thrown in, a month-long hiking and camping adventure through craggy mountains, an eco-trip to spot rare birds or big cats, a sporty break with world-class surfing and cycling, a week spent contemplating stars and solitude in the desert, or a studious sojourn to brush up on local history – South Africa delivers on every level, for every budget. It’s more than 20 years since I first set foot in SA, and 14 years since I moved here ‘just for a year’, and this beautiful country’s sheer diversity continues to scratch my itchy feet every single day.

Lucy Corne

@LucyCorne

Lucy is a travel, food and beer writer and has been based in Cape Town since 2010.

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My favourite experience is gazing upwards to admire the glorious 180-degree horizons of the Northern Cape, with night skies so studded with stars you can almost read by their light.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define South Africa, Lesotho & eSwatini.

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MICHAELJUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

There are so many beautiful spots in and around Cape Town, but my favourite is Cape Point: standing on the rocks at the tip of the peninsula, buffeted by the wind, feeling the waves pounding on the cliffs below and taking in the vistas running to the horizon.

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Mary Fitzpatrick

@MaryFitzTravel

Mary is an Africa-based writer whose travels always seem to bring her back to Cape Town.

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NARINA EXELBY/LONELY PLANET ©

Hiking the Otter Trail is unquestionably one of the most memorable ways to experience South Africa’s wilder side. There is no mobile-phone signal; the coastal scenery is varied and exquisite; and it’s physically challenging, too.

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Narina Exelby

@narina.exelby

Narina is a roaming South African writer whose default setting has always been to seek out quiet spaces.

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GIL.K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

My favourite experience is strolling down Fox St in Jo’burg’s Maboneng district in the early evening, grabbing a drink from a streetside or rooftop bar and taking in the neighbourhood’s palpable vibrancy and energy.

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Michael Grosberg

Michael is a longtime Lonely Planet writer and co-founder of travel start-up LikeLocal (www.likelocal.io).

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JOHANNES KRAAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

There’s a snort in the long grass and out trots a warthog of diminutive size. Soon after, another one appears, followed by the rest of the family, snout to tail. They stop when they see me and then march on by, unphased by a hiker sharing their highveld home for a day. This is what I love about magnificent Malolotja Nature Reserve – you only get to borrow it.

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Dr Jenny Walker

@jennywalkertravel

Dr Jenny Walker is a higher education consultant, co-author of an off-road guide to Oman and author of a book on why explorers still venture into the desert and what this environment has to teach us in the age of the Anthropocene.

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GREATSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

The Taung Heritage Route is the epitome of off-the-beaten-path, and those are my favourite kinds of places: destinations that stand out not because of their glamour or popularity, but because of the amount of history that they hold. Taung is an understated archaeological treasure, rich in ancient history and a blossoming cultural hub that’s well-worth the commitment of the trek that it gets to take there.

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Neema Githere

Neema Githere (b. Nairobi, Kenya) is a writer and theorist whose work explores Afro-diasporic culture and indigenous technologies.

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KEV GREGORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The outskirts of the bold and mountainous Waterberg are charming with their focus on wildlife. The meticulous efforts to create experiences around South Africa’s majestic animals are deeply rooted in conservation, and locals, accustomed to the serene energy of nature, coexist harmoniously without disturbance.

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Linathi Makanda

@linathimakanda

Linathi Makanda is a homebody turned travel enthusiast, editorial writer and photographer.

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LUCIAN COMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Kalahari is my favourite place because of its vast terrain that has a rich history and culture. It’s a great place to interact with locals. Here you’ll find one of Africa’s oldest communities, the ‡Khomani San, who call this desolate dry landscape home. While travelling, I had pleasant experiences with the locals who are so warm and welcoming.

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Mwende Mutuli Musau

@tulimusau

Mwende Mutuli Musau, better known as Tuli, writes about travel, food and culture.

Country Map

WATCHING WILDLIFE

Wildlife is still the top drawcard for the region. If you’re hoping to tick off the Big Five (elephant, rhino, lion, leopard and buffalo), check that your chosen park has what you’re looking for, and keep your expectations realistic – just because the park has them, it doesn’t guarantee you’ll see them. There’s more to game viewing than the Big Five – watch a giraffe drink from a water hole as the sun sets, learn to distinguish the many antelope species or try to snap a shot of a warthog as it darts off into the bush.

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Lion cubs, Kruger National Park | SIMON EEMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Picking a Park

eSwatini’s big parks are known for rhino spotting, the Kgalagadi is great for big cats, Addo (pictured) is of course excellent for elephants and the Kruger abounds in almost everything.

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CARCHARADON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Walking the Wilds

Many of the wildlife parks offer guided walking safaris, usually with an armed ranger. Be sure to book ahead to secure a spot.

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RICHARD VAN DER SPUY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Drive Yourself

Most of the region’s national parks allow self-drive safaris. You don’t need a 4WD in most parks, but something with good clearance is recommended.

BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

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Enjoy sandy drives and big cat sightings in the vast expanse of the 1 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Whether you’re looking for big cats, abundant antelopes, rare birds, rhinos or elephants, you’ll find it all at 2 Kruger National Park.

Self-drive through the easily accessible 3 Addo Elephant National Park for virtually guaranteed sighting of pachyderm herds.

Swap land for ocean and go whale or shark spotting along the Overberg coast between 4 Hermanus and Cape Town.

Charge your camera for likely encounters with white rhino, then try to tick off the rest of the Big Five at 5 Hlane Royal National Park.

Swirl & Sip

Wine tasting in the Western Cape is one of the finest ways to spend a day in South Africa. Hop between vineyards sampling robust reds on traditional estates, or crisp whites under ancient trees. The Winelands excel at fine dining and also offer interesting tasting experiences, pairing wine with everything from biltong and pizza to marshmallows and cigars.

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Groot Constantia vineyard | LOIS GOBE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Homegrown Grape

If you want to taste a truly South African wine, look out for Pinotage, a cross of pinot noir and hermitage grapes.

What to Budget

A decent bottle of wine costs R120–180 and something outstanding R200–400. Tastings cost around R100, the fee often waived if you buy a few bottles.

Best Wine-Tasting Experiences

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Visit 1 Villiera for wonderful MCC (Méthode Cap Classique, the local version of Champagne) and game drives.

Sip fantastic reds and enjoy a gourmet picnic on the lawns at 2 Warwick Wine Estate.

Stroll the grand grounds at South Africa’s oldest wine estate, 3 Groot Constantia, in the southern suburbs of Cape Town.

Enjoy local art, exquisite wines and great views at 4 Delaire Graff; if you feel like treating yourself, stay for a stellar lunch (bookings essential).

Taste the signature Shiraz at 5 La Motte, then explore the art museum or walk the 5km circular trail through the farm and mountains.

Delightful Dorpies

Whitewashed houses kissed by the setting sun, quirky museums, owner-run cafes serving local dishes and always at the centre an incongruously large church: South Africa has some charming little towns (dorps or dorpies in Afrikaans). It’s worth getting out of the main centres to experience a bit of small-town South African life.

Choose Your Day

You won’t find much happening in small-town South Africa on a Sunday, unless you’re headed to church. Many restaurants are closed Sunday and Monday.

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GROBLER DU PREEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Book a Table

In tiny towns there might only be one or two restaurants, so it’s a good idea to book ahead if you’re planning to dine.

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VANESSA BENTLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Local Knowledge

Many small towns have excellent local guides that can turn a pretty building into a fascinating historical yarn.

Best Small-Town Experiences

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Pretty 1 Montagu on Route 62 is worth a visit for its architecture, restaurants, bird sanctuary and grand hotel oozing historic charm.

Dubbed the ‘fly fishing capital of South Africa’, 2 Dullstroom also has a superlative whisky shop with a 2000-strong collection.

Best known for its clear night skies, 3 Sutherland is the place to go for stargazing, solitude and excellent lamb chops.

Known for its artists, 4 Nieu Bethesda also has an excellent bookshop, a small museum and a fossil centre.

Boat trips, beautiful beaches and hippos wandering the streets – there’s nowhere on Earth quite like 5 St Lucia.

Meet the Locals

The Rainbow Nation is a coming together of cultures and languages and there are plenty of opportunities to learn more about the different groups. From community-run cultural centres and small museums, to language and cooking classes and homestays, there are plenty of ways to get closer to the people of South Africa, Lesotho and eSwatini.

Touring the Townships

Be sure to find a local guide when visiting the townships for a more authentic viewpoint. Arrange a walking tour if possible.

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MOEHRING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Photography Rules

Most people are happy to have their photo taken, but always ask first and respect the reply.

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JESUS COBALEDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Learn the Language

No one will expect you to be fluent, but learning to greet and give thanks in the region’s most-spoken dialect will garner smiles and open doors.

Best Cultural Experiences

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Visit the excellent 1 !Khwa ttu north of Cape Town to learn about the endangered culture of the indigenous San people.

Meet the residents of South Africa’s townships on a tour with a local guide. Recommended is the Rastafarian community of 2 Judah Square in Knysna.

Get deeper insight into the language, food and traditions of the Xhosa people at the community-owned lodge in 3 Bulungula.

Meet the Venda artists and learn about local lore and legend at 4 Madi A Thavha in Limpopo.

Learn about Basotho life and history at the 5 Thaba Bosiu Cultural VIllage in Lesotho.

STEPPING BACK IN TIME

Exploring South Africa’s past is essential if you want to truly understand the country today. There are excellent museums and sites all over the country dedicated to documenting the apartheid years. But you should also step back further to explore indigenous Khoe-San history and the incursions and battles of the various European arrivals through the centuries.

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Constitution Hill, Johannesburg | JACEK_SOPOTNICKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Mandela Trail

Make Nelson Mandela the centrepiece of your South African trip, visiting important sites from his life in Johannesburg, Cape Town and the Eastern Cape.

Grabbing a Guide

Hiring a local guide will ensure you get much more out of your experience than if you go it alone, especially in the KZN Battlefields.

Best History Experiences

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Get a deeper understanding of South Africa’s difficult past at the excellent 1 Apartheid Museum just outside Johannesburg and 2 Constitution Hill in the city centre.

Take a tour guide to bring to life the various skirmishes that took place in KwaZulu-Natal’s 3 Battlefields region.

Step back into South Africa’s wild west with a wander around the 4 Big Hole Museum in Kimberley.

Take a sombre wander around 5 Robben Island, the offshore prison that held numerous anti-apartheid activists, including Nelson Mandela.

Grab a local guide and hike to San rock art sites in the 6 Cederberg.

OCEAN DEEP TO MOUNTAIN HIGH

South Africa, Lesotho and eSwatini have a remarkable range of landscapes, from towering mountains and desert dirt tracks to pristine beaches and sweeping savannah. Whether you’re looking for forest or jungle, cliff or valley, you’ll find the backdrop to every possible adventure here.

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The Amphitheatre | JACYNTHROODE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Dirt Road Driving

Some of the country’s best views are accessed via gravel roads. A 4WD isn’t always essential, but is best for peace of mind.

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WILDSNAP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Choose Your Season

Make sure you’re visiting in the right season to avoid excessive snow or wind in the mountains, or rainy days on the beach.

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ALEXCPT_PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See It From Above

You can take a helicopter tour over Cape Town and the Peninsula for the best possible views.

BEST AWE-INSPIRING LANDSCAPES

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Of all the impressive landscapes in South Africa, the jagged peaks and marvellous views of the 1 Drakensberg take the crown.

Otherworldly rock formations and ethereal sunset lighting make the 2 Cederberg one of the most striking parts of South Africa.

From Table Mountain to Cape Point, the cliffs, mountains and beaches of the 3 Cape Peninsula make this one of the most scenic parts of the country.

Stand before the thundering waters of 4 Augrabies Falls, hike or drive the nature reserve and raft the river above the falls.

Every mountain pass in Lesotho offers the kind of views that fill up memory cards, but best of them all is the winding and improbably steep 5 Sani Pass.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Along the Cape Coast

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Allow: 8 days Distance: 650km

Kicking off in Cape Town with its plethora of attractions, the route heads east to the Winelands before hitting the Overberg coast for a night. You’ll then continue east along the Garden Route, where outdoor activities abound in the region’s forests, lakes and, of course, its glorious beaches.

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1 Cape Town 3 DAYS

There’s lots to see and do in Cape Town, so you’ll have to plan carefully to fit everything into a short stay. In three days you could hike to the top of Table Mountain, explore the V&A Waterfront, spend a day between Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and the Constantia wineries and use your final day to explore the beaches – and penguins – of the peninsula.

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40MM PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Franschhoek 1 DAY

For one day in the Winelands, Franschhoek is the best bet, with its compact town centre, excellent restaurants and the Wine Tram making it easy to get around the wineries. Highly recommended are La Motte, Boschendal and L’Ormarins. If you have the time, it’s worth taking a drive to see the gardens at Babylonstoren.

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BERNARD PIETERSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Hermanus 1 DAY

It’s a little out of the way, but taking the coastal route to Hermanus via Gordon’s Bay is worth it. There are spectacular views along the way, as well as a penguin colony and an excellent botanical garden. Hermanus (pictured) is best known for its whale watching. During the season (June–December) you can take a boat trip, go kayaking or spot them from the shore. Off season, the region has lovely hiking trails and some good restaurants.

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LEMARET PIERRICK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Wilderness 1 DAY

The first thing you see as you approach Wilderness is the marvellous beach – great for walks, not recommended for swimming. This well-named town is all about outdoor adventure, with lakes, forest and ocean. It also has a couple of surprisingly good restaurants so you can replenish lost calories.

Detour: Check out the Cango Caves and ostrich farms of Oudtshoorn – a worthy daytrip with some excellent restaurants.

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LIVING-SOUTHAFRICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Knysna 1 DAY

It’s a short drive from Wilderness to Knysna, a pretty but often busy tourist town known for boat trips on the lagoon and hiking in the forests, where one remaining elephant is said to still wander. You can also take a walking tour of the townships here, including the Rastafarian settlement at Judah Square.

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MICHAELJUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Plettenberg Bay 1 DAY

Best known as ‘Plett’, the last stop is an upmarket seaside town with great beaches and oceanic activities, including the opportunity to snorkel with Cape fur seals at Robberg Nature Reserve (pictured). The family-friendly attractions here include a bird park, monkey forest, giant maze and the opportunity to walk with elephants.

Detour: Pop into the Eastern Cape to experience some of the outdoor adventures in Storms River. Book activities ahead of time.

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DANIELA MORGENSTERN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

From City to Bush

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Allow: 7 days Distance: 1100km

This route takes you from urban jungle to real wilderness, giving a great feel for South Africa’s extreme diversity. From Jo’burg you meander through the impressive Mpumalanga landscape before exploring Kruger National Park. The return leg visits picturesque Limpopo and ends in the capital, Pretoria.

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Pretoria | ARNOLD.PETERSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 Johannesburg 1 DAY

Jo’burg, as it is almost always known, is the perfect place to delve into South African history, with various excellent museums focusing on the apartheid years. Spend some time exploring the downtown cafes, restaurants and galleries and if time allows head into Soweto for some proper local food and a deeper look into the country’s recent, troubled past.

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SOPOTNICKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Blyde River Canyon 1 DAY

Driving northeast, you can take your pick of small Mpumalanga towns for lunch – Dullstroom is worth the slight detour, while Pilgrim’s Rest is a quirky if slightly contrived pit stop. The main attraction, though, is the impressive Blyde River Canyon, with its waterfalls, short walks and many lookout points. Spend the night in nearby Sabie or Graskop.

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GUNTER NUYTS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Blyde River Canyon | FOKKE BAARSSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Kruger National Park 3 DAYS

Enter the park at either Orpen or East Gate. With three days in the Kruger, it’s best to try not to cover vast distances. Consider staying in two or three different camps and spending your day slowly meandering from one to the next, stopping to spend plenty of time with some of the myriad mammals and birds that call this massive park home.

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PACO COMO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Magoebaskloof Pass 1 DAY

Depending on how far you manage to get within the park, exit at Phalaborwa or Punda Maria Gate and head west to the lush rainforests of the Magoebaskloof region. The area is rich in farmstalls, artisanal foodstuffs, hiking trails through the trees and picturesque places to spend a night.

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NATURE’S CHARM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Pretoria 1 DAY

Ease gently back into city life with a day in Pretoria. Pretoria’s architecture and museums are worth a visit – especially the Freedom Park and Voortrekker Museum. Finish off with some good food and a circuit of Hatfield’s student-friendly bars.

Detour: Add a day for outdoor adventure in the Magaliesberg mountains, stopping to check out the Cradle of Humankind en route.

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SSCHIETEKAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

From Durban to Lesotho

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Allow: 7 days Distance: 1280km

From ocean to mountain via wetland, wildlife park and historic battlefield, this week-long route taking in the top sights of KZN shows that the province has real range. The icing on the cake (literally, in snowy season) is the chance to conquer the marvellous Sani Pass and take a brief peek into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.

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Mission Rocks beach, Cape Vidal | FOKKE BAARSSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 Durban 1 DAY

Beachfront cocktails, museums featuring local art and history, stellar surfing, a rich, fascinating culture and the chance to eat plenty of spicy curry, more often than not ladled into a hollowed out loaf of bread – Durban has its own distinct character and is a vibrant spot to kick off your trip.

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PHOTO AFRICA SA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 2 DAYS

Best known for its work in saving the white rhino from extinction, and for superb sightings of the no-longer-endangered species, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is a fine park that’s home to all of the Big Five. You can take a guided safari or drive yourself around, though arguably the best way to see the park is on foot, joining one of the famed wilderness trails.

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ELLEON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 St Lucia 1 DAY

Fitting St Lucia’s attractions into one day is a challenge, but it can be done. Spend the morning on the signature boat trip, looking out for crocs and hippos in the river. After lunch take a drive into Cape Vidal within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site, then finish with a plate of seafood in town – just watch out for hippos (pictured) in the streets on your way home.

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NEISSL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Battlefields 1 DAY

From St Lucia, drive southwest to the Battlefields region, where fierce battles between Zulu warriors and interlopers from Europe took place. The main sites are Rorke’s Drift, Blood/Ncome River, Talana and Ladysmith. Get a guide and try to hit three or four sites in a day.

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GROBLER DU PREEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Central Drakensberg 1 DAY

If you’re here to hike, the Drakensberg could keep you busy for weeks. There are easier trails around Monk’s Cowl (pictured) and Kamberg, or tackle something challenging at Didima or Sentinel Peak. Don’t worry if you don’t want to hike – there are plenty of less energetic pursuits too, chief among them is simply enjoying the region’s gorgeous mountain views.

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NADINE KLOSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Southern Drakensberg 1 DAY

It’s a 3.5 hour drive from the Central ‘Berg to Underberg, launchpad for 4WD drives up the spectacularly winding and vertiginous Sani Pass, which leads into Lesotho. Stay a night in Underberg before joining a morning tour to the top of the pass and back, then grab your rental car and drive the 210km back to Durban to finish the circuit.

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SARA WINTERW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

The Offbeat North

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Allow: 8 days Distance: 1630km

For those who like to venture where most tourists don’t, this trek along the West Coast into the Northern Cape is ideal. Attractions include big starry skies, thundering waterfalls, windswept beaches, epic hikes and big cat sightings.

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1 Cape Town 1 DAY

With one day in Cape Town you’ll have to be very selective. If the weather allows, visit the top of Table Mountain in the morning, either by cable car or on foot. Grab lunch in a Constantia winery and spend the afternoon in the peninsula, surfing, sunbathing, penguin watching or cafe-hopping in Kalk Bay.

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Cape Town | ARNOLD.PETERSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Paternoster 1 DAY

Of all the West Coast towns, Paternoster is the prettiest. You can easily spend a full day relaxing on its expansive beach, kayaking the chilly Atlantic waters, hiking through the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, horse riding along the coast or sipping pilsner in the town’s microbrewery. Gourmands should book ahead – the town has some excellent restaurants.

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MADELE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Cederberg 2 DAYS

Best known as a superlative hiking and climbing destination, the Cederberg also offers plenty for less energetic types. There’s a world-class winery, plus two small microbreweries. Check out the San rock art and visit sun-kissed caves at dusk, then spend the rest of the night stargazing until you retire to your chalet or tent.

4 Port Nolloth 1 DAY

It’s a long way up the N7 to reach the turn-off that takes you to the little seaside town of Port Nolloth, but the drive alone makes it worth a visit. This quiet, windswept corner has simple charms – unpretentious seafood restaurants, a local history museum focusing on the region’s diamond industry and a wild, frontier charm that makes it worth the detour.

5 Augrabies Falls National Park 1 DAY

Another long day’s drive is rewarded with the thundering waters of the Augrabies Falls, and you can overnight in the rest camp close to the water. This park isn’t just about cascades – there are hikes ranging from 2–36km and the opportunity to spot giraffes, antelopes and zebras on a self-guided wildlife drive.

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MICHAEL WICK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 2 DAYS

Driving north, you soon get the feel of the Kalahari around you as sand replaces scrubland. This magnificent park offers epic big cat sightings, challenging 4WD routes (high-clearance 2WDs can handle main roads) and everything from basic campsites to a luxury lodge operated by the ‡Khomani San community.

ITINERARIES

Eastern Cape Circuit

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Allow: 5 Days Distance: 850km

The Eastern Cape is often overshadowed by its western counterpart but this vast province has so much to offer. There are Big Five wildlife reserves, amazing beaches, quirky towns in the hinterland, plenty for history buffs to dig their teeth into, and opportunities to immerse yourself in Xhosa culture.

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Surfer, Jeffreys Bay | LMSPENCER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 Gqeberha 1 DAY

Gqeberha – formerly known as Port Elizabeth – is the biggest city in the Eastern Cape, though it’s still more of a town than a city. It has just about enough to keep your attention for a full day though: fine beaches, a few museums and galleries, some interesting historical architecture and a few nice cafes and bars.

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SOUTH AFRICA STOCK VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Addo Elephant National Park 1 DAY

Only half an hour’s drive from Gqeberha is this excellent and highly accessible national park. The Big Five all reside here, but there are no prizes for guessing which one you’re most likely to spot. In fact it’s nigh on impossible not to have a close-up elephant encounter here. Drive yourself or join a guided drive, then spend a night in the park.

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FOKKE BAARSSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Zebras, Addo Elephant National Park | BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Chintsa 1 DAY

At the southern end of the Wild Coast, Chintsa is a laid-back traveller town with spectacular beaches and a menu of outdoor activities. It’s a great place to get a feel for the region if you don’t have the time to delve deeper into the Wild Coast, offering horse and hiking trails, water sports and splashes of Xhosa culture.

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VICTORIA FIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Hogsback 1 DAY

Pretty Hogsback is known for its misty, mountainous terrain filled with waterfalls and hiking trails. It’s so picturesque that it’s often (erroneously) said to have inspired Tolkien’s Middle Earth. You can easily spend a full day walking, enjoying lunch with a view and indulging in some sunset yoga.

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STEFANO EMBER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Jeffreys Bay 1 DAY

The best way to liven up after a day in sleepy Hogsback is by delving into the waves in Jeffreys Bay – generally considered to be the best place to surf in South Africa. There are epic breaks for the experienced, beginner classes for the uninitiated and some good bars for those who prefer to stay on dry land. From here it’s less than an hour back to Gqeberha.

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MD_PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WHEN TO GO

Go when you want to. South Africa is a year-round destination with different provinces shining at different times of year.

You could feasibly travel around South Africa for years just chasing the best weather conditions. The south of the country has a temperate climate, with warm to hot summers (Dec–Feb) and cool, rainy winter months (Jun–Aug). In the centre and north of the country – as well as eSwatini – summers are rainy while the winter days bring bright blue skies and warm sunshine. But the second the sun sets, the temperature drops and has you reaching for extra layers. Winter is better for game viewing in the north since the dryer weather pushes wildlife to water holes. Animals can be difficult to spot in the rainy summers, when abundant foliage helps them remain hidden. Cape Town is best visited from March to May when the summer crowds have dispersed and the notorious wind has died down. Durban is warm year-round but the summer rains can put a literal dampener on beach visits. Lesotho is best visited in autumn and spring – summer is wet and winters can be icy in the mountains.

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Northern Cape flowers | ELIZABETH STEGMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I LIVE HERE

FLOWER SEASON FAIL

Shawn Duthie is a freelance writer based in Cape Town.

After living in South Africa for years, I finally made a plan to go and see the Northern Cape flowers. Camera and spare batteries were packed, but when we arrived I realised a magnifying glass would be more useful. This was the year the Cape had suffered a serious drought and it never occurred to me that there would be virtually no flowers. Luckily we got to experience Calvinia’s meat fest instead!

WATER WARRIORS

In 2018, Cape Town suffered a drought so serious it was set to become the first major city in the world to run out of water. The government launched a countdown to ‘Day Zero’, and citizens implemented massive water-saving measures that luckily saved the city from disaster.

THE CAPE DOCTOR

If there’s one thing that stops Cape Town from being the perfect city, it’s the wind. Known as the Cape Doctor, the southeasterly wind can howl through late spring and early summer (and is generally at its worst from November to early February).

The Biggest Festivals

AfrikaBurn South Africa’s answer to Burning Man, this April event sees celebrants dressing up and hitting the desert for seven days of community-spirited performance and burning of giant sculptures.

National Arts Festival Held in June or July, this 10-day event sees poets and playwrights, musicians and mimes arriving in Makhanda for the biggest arts fest in the country – if not the continent.

Splashy Fen Based in the Drakensberg, this is South Africa’s longest running music festival, with five stages plus plenty of family-friendly activities happening on the sidelines.

Pink Loerie Mardi Gras One of the largest pride events in South Africa. Expect parties, art exhibitions and live performance around Knysna in late April/early May.

Umhlanga Reed Dance The biggest event in eSwatini sees some 40,000 unmarried women donning traditional garb and descending on the royal parade ground to sing and dance in the hope of becoming King Mswati’s next wife.

Local Flavour

Garden Route Kite Festival A family-friendly day out in Sedgefield, with kite-flying contests, games, live music and plenty of food stalls. Takes place in October.

Hermanus Whale Festival Conservation talks, kids’ activities, craft stalls, sporting events, live music and even a mini beer fest – Hermanus’s three-day fest in late September is about much more than whale-spotting.

Stoepsitfees If ever you wanted to get a feel for small-town South African life, this weekend-long festival in tiny Rhodes will deliver. For two days each February, locals welcome visitors onto their stoeps (porches) to attend cooking demos and art lessons.

Kalahari Desert Festival A two-day celebration of desert culture, featuring music, dance, craft workshops and food from the ‡Khomani San people.

I LIVE HERE

SEASONAL SURF

Greg Casey is the owner of Banana Jam Cafe and Afro Caribbean Brewing Company in Cape Town. @surfbeertravel

In the summer months, when the southeaster is blowing, we would check the surf forecast on a Monday evening and if it was good we’d be up and out by 5am to drive from Cape Town to Elands Bay on the West Coast. We’d be in the water by 7.30am and with the weekenders gone, we’d have the waves to ourselves.

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The Drakensberg Mountains | SHAMS/GETTY IMAGES ©

SNOW IN AFRICA

In winter (July and August) it is not unusual for the country’s higher peaks to be dusted with snow. Locals will rush out to get a glimpse of the white stuff, particularly in the Drakensberg and the Matroosberg, 200km from Cape Town.

Weather Through the Year

JANUARY

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 31°C

eSwatini: 30°C

Lesotho: 24°C

FEBRUARY

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 30°C

eSwatini: 30°C

Lesotho: 23°C

MARCH

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 29°C

eSwatini: 30°C

Lesotho: 22°C

APRIL

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 26°C

eSwatini: 27°C

Lesotho: 18°C

MAY

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 23°C

eSwatini: 26°C

Lesotho: 16°C

JUNE

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 20°C

eSwatini: 24°C

Lesotho: 13.5°C

JULY

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 20°C

eSwatini: 24°C

Lesotho: 13.5°C

AUGUST

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 22°C

eSwatini: 25°C

Lesotho: 16°C

SEPTEMBER

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 25°C

eSwatini: 27°C

Lesotho: 20°C

OCTOBER

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 27°C

eSwatini: 27°C

Lesotho: 21°C

NOVEMBER

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 29°C

eSwatini: 28°C

Lesotho: 22°C

DECEMBER

Ave. daytime max

S Africa: 30°C

eSwatini: 29°C

Lesotho: 23°C

GET PREPARED

FOR SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO & ESWATINI

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.

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Leopard spotting, Kruger National Park | SIRTRAVELALOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clothes

Sun hat The Southern African sun is harsh. Pack a hat, even in winter.

Casual clothes All three countries are laid-back and dress is generally casual: jeans or shorts and T-shirts. If you’re planning a fancy meal, pack something smarter.

Flip-flops Known in South Africa as plakkies or slip slops, the flip-flop is worn everywhere from the beaches of Cape Town to the streets of small-town Limpopo.

Hiking boots All three countries offer superlative hiking trails and while you could use running shoes, boots are better.

Layers In South Africa’s interior, days are warm in winter, but when the sun sets, temperatures plummet. The same goes for Lesotho’s highlands (although you’ll need thicker layers here). Cape Town’s weather is notoriously fickle: always have a hat, tank top, jersey and umbrella handy!

Manners

Greetings are important – always say hello and enquire about wellbeing before diving into the meat of the conversation.

Handshakes are common when greeting, including the three-part handshake common across the continent.

Don’t get offended if someone calls you auntie or uncle, even if they’re clearly not young enough to be your niece or nephew: it’s a term of respect.

READ

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Long Walk to Freedom (Nelson Mandela; 1994) The former president’s excellent autobiography is essential reading.

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Spud (John van de Ruit; 2005) Humorous coming-of-age novel based in an all boys’ boarding school in the 1990s.

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The Elephant Whisperer (Lawrence Anthony; 2009) The story of Anthony’s relationship with a troubled herd of elephants in KwaZulu-Natal.

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Born a Crime (Trevor Noah; 2016) Funny and occasionally poignant autobiography by the South African comedian.

Words

Howzit Probably the most South African of all words – a standard greeting at any time of day, which means both ‘hello’ and ‘how are you?’ all at once.

Yebo The Zulu word for yes is used across all languages.

Just now/now now Both are used to refer to something that the speaker plans to do in the future. ‘I’ll tidy the kitchen now now’ could mean sometime in the next hour or sometime in the next week.

Shame A general term that can mean ‘oh no’, ‘oh dear’, how cute’, ‘I sympathise with you’ or sometimes just ‘oh’. Usually preceded by the word ‘ag’ and/or followed by ‘man’.

Robot The local term for a traffic light.

Hayibo! A Zulu expression of surprise.

Kiff Cool; can be used as a term of agreement. ‘Let’s meet at the beach at 6.’ ‘Kiff.’

Lekker Afrikaans slang that has made it into the wider lexicon – it means ‘nice’ or ‘awesome’.

Boet/bhuti/bru All used to mean brother (as in friend, not just sibling).

Eish An expression of displeasure, like saying ‘oh man’. ‘Eish, I see petrol prices have gone up again.’

Jol A party or good time. ‘That backpacker bar was a real jol.’

Sharp Can be translated to ‘OK got you’ or ‘all good’. Is often used in duplicate to make sure the message went through.

Cheers Used when clinking glasses as in other countries, but also means goodbye.

WATCH

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MOVIESTORE COLLECTION LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Tstotsi (Gavin Hood; 2005) Oscar-winner charting gangster life in Jo’burg through the eyes of a tough teenager.

Invictus (Clint Eastwood; 2009) Depicts Nelson Mandela’s plan to unite post-apartheid South Africa with rugby during the 1995 World Cup.

Searching for Sugarman (Malik Bendjellou;, 2012, pictured) Documentary on musician Sixto Rodriguez, forgotten in his native USA but a superstar in South Africa.

My Octopus Teacher (Pippa Ehrlich, James Reed; 2020) Documentary charting the filmmaker’s relationship with an octopus in the Cape’s kelp forests.

LISTEN

Third World Child (Johnny Clegg, 1987) With lyrics in English and Zulu, this album led the beloved singer-songwriter to global stardom.

Memeza (Brenda Fassie, 1998) The Madonna of the Townships’ blend of Afropop and kwaito made this the biggest selling album of all time in South Africa.

Nkalakatha (Mandoza, 2000) Hit album from the Soweto-born kwaito artist.

Her Essential Recordings (Miriam Makeba, 2006) A compilation of the best songs from the jazz artist known as Mama Africa.

THE FOOD SCENE

Southern Africa’s fantastically diverse food scene features everything from hearty African fare to spiced dishes originating in the east.

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A braai (barbecue) | COMPASS CREW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

South Africa’s cuisine is as varied as its landscape, language and people. In Cape Town you still find places specialising in Cape Malay cuisine, which has its roots in southeast Asian cooking and offers dishes that are fragrant, slightly sweet and spicy. The influence of the subcontinent is evident in Durban’s spicy curries and breyanis (a spiced rice dish similar to the Indian biryani). Elsewhere, hearty portions of meat are a staple, although there’s fine seafood to be found too. Street food isn’t a big thing in South Africa, Lesotho and eSwatini, and is often limited to mielies (corn on the cob), samoosas or boerewors (farmer’s sausage) rolls. Look out for buy-and-braai stands next to grocery stores or butcher’s shops. You buy your meat and a street chef will spice it and cook it over coals for you. If you’re seeking upmarket dining, there are superb restaurants to be found, particularly around Cape Town and the Winelands, where a world-class meal comes with a South African price tag.

The Great South African Braai

Nothing brings South Africans together like a braai – a foodie gathering that transcends all cultural and socio-economic groups. The word translates as ‘barbecue’, but don’t let a South African hear you call it that. A proper braai is made with wood rather than charcoal or – heaven forbid – gas, and is a lengthy process that’s as much a social occasion as it is a cooking method. Typical braai staples include lamb chops, boerewors and sosaties (spiced meat kebabs). Sides include mielies, roosterkoek (bread dough cooked over the coals) and an array of salads that most people ignore in favour of more meat and beer.

Hot & Cold Brews

South Africa is known for wine, but in fact beer is the most popular alcoholic beverage. The main brands include Castle, Lion and Black Label. Traditional beer, generally referred to using the isiZulu word umqombothi, is a thick, opaque brew made from sorghum and maize. Typically made by women, it’s largely used for ceremonies and celebrations, although there are commercial versions. In Lesotho, look out for a white or yellow flag outside someone's home – an indicator that traditional beer (known as joala) is available. There is also a small but passionate craft beer movement in South Africa, with around 150 microbreweries found across the nine provinces. If you’re looking for something non-alcoholic, rooibos tea is a source of national pride. You'll find it provided next to the kettle in almost every guesthouse or hotel room. It's served with or without milk and has a unique flavour of red berries and honey.

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Castle lager | ELDRED DU PREEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vegetarians & Vegans

This is a real meat eater's territory (chicken is often referred to as a vegetable in Southern Africa), but vegetarians will almost always find something on the menu. In smaller towns and rural areas, vegans might find themselves limited to side dishes although the classic versionof one of the country's most famous dishes, bunny chow, is a vegan-friendly bean curry.

FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Clarens Craft Beer Festival Some 10,000 revellers descend on the village in February to sample craft beers from across the country.

Knysna Oyster Festival (pictured) This 10-day fest in June includes sports, live music and art expos, but at its heart is the delicacy for which it is named.

Karoo Food Festival Held in April, this small-town festival offers the chance to sample traditional Karoo cuisine in Cradock.

Ficksburg Cherry Festival As well as eating cherries in every form imaginable, the fest includes cooking competitions and live music.

Maletsunyane Braai Festival This weekend-long homage to cooking on coals takes place next to the Maletsunyane Falls.

Soweto Wine Festival Taste the best of the Cape’s wines in a three-day event in Soweto each October.

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IMAGO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Best Southern African Dishes

BUNNY CHOW

A hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with chicken, bean or lamb curry.

PAP

A stiff maizemeal porridge usually served as a side with stews and curries.

CAPE MALAY CURRY

A sweet and mildly spiced curry featuring cinnamon and allspice.

CHAKALAKA

Not a dish in itself, but this mildly spiced tomato relish is an essential accompaniment.

BOBOTIE

Sweet, spicy mince topped with a savoury egg custard. The classic Cape Malay dish.

SNOEK

A large, bony white fish, smoked or slathered in apricot jam and cooked on the braai.

UMBHIDVO

A melange of bitter greens said to be full of life-enhancing properties (eSwatini).

LIKHOBE

A vegetarian stew made with sorghum, beans and bulghur, popular in Lesotho.

Local Specialities

Snack Foods

Biltong Dried, spiced meat favoured by the Voortrekkers and any South African going on a road trip.

Wors roll The South African version of a hot dog – boerewors in a roll, usually topped with fried onions.

Mielies Corn on the cob grilled on the braai; often served as a street snack.

Vetkoek Fried dough balls filled with savoury mince, jam or cheese.

Dare to Try

Mogodu Beef tripe, spiced, boiled and usually served with pap.

Mopane Worms Not a worm but a caterpillar, fried, seasoned and eaten as a street snack, particularly in the north.

Skilpadjies Seasoned lamb liver wrapped in caul fat and usually braaied.

Bokkoms Pungent strips of dried mullet, found on the West Coast.

Smileys Boiled and roasted sheep's head.

Sweet Treats

Malva pudding A decadent dessert similar to sticky toffee pudding, served with custard or ice cream.

Melktert A thick vanilla custard set into a tart and dosed with cinnamon.