The Little Black Dress: How to dress perfectly for any occasion
By Tracy Martin
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About this ebook
Tracy Martin
Collectables, fashion and antiques expert Tracy Martin appears regularly on television (ITV This Morning, Alan Titchmarsh Show, BBC Flog it!) has resident BBC Radio slots and conducts lectures on the history of Shoes and fashion around the country. Her previous books include Collectable Names and Designs in Women’s Fashion, High Heel Heaven, The Little Black Dress and Christmas Collectables. She is renowned for her infectious enthusiasm and passion for fashion.
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The Little Black Dress - Tracy Martin
Chapter 1
The Little Black Dress (LBD)
The golden rule of fashion is that no woman’s wardrobe is complete without a sophisticated yet simple Little Black Dress. A staple garment, it should have a clean silhouette and a feminine elegance, and be short in length as well as versatile enough for any occasion. A design classic, from its first appearance the LBD revolutionized the way women dressed, and even today it is considered one of the most important garments for a woman to own.
The Origins of the LBD
We have iconic French fashion designer, Gabrielle Coco
Chanel to thank for bringing the LBD into our lives and, of course, into our wardrobes. Renowned for turning fashion completely on its head, Chanel had already liberated women from the constraints of the corset and in the early part of the twentieth century introduced more practical women’s clothing in the form of boyish sportswear, suits, and unisex pants. However, it was the Little Black Dress that was to be her most groundbreaking fashion statement when it first made an appearance in 1926.
Throughout both the Victorian and Edwardian eras the color black had been reserved for those in full mourning; in fact, it was considered indecent to wear black otherwise. Chanel dismissed this prehistoric attitude to color by designing a plain, black, sleeveless, calf-length, sexy dress. An immediate success, not only did it catch the eye of women who appreciated fashion, but it also grabbed the attention of the industry as a whole.
Vogue magazine labeled the dress as Chanel’s Ford,
insinuating that it was comparable to Henry Ford’s Model-T car—simply designed and economically priced—and so ensuring that every woman was able to own one. It was also said that the Little Black Dress would become a sort of uniform for all women of taste, a prophecy that has surely come true.
It is easy to see why this simply cut, plain dress was so alluring. Color had reigned supreme for some time, with heavy prints, embellishments, and embroidery adorning most women’s garments, especially dresses. The LBD was a complete contrast. Its sleek lines outlined a silhouette that possessed an air of restrained elegance, and so to this day, this garment has become perhaps the most vital ingredient in every woman’s wardrobe.
When the Little Black Dress is right, there is nothing else to wear in its place.
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor and style icon
The LBD Rules
You would be mistaken in believing that every short black dress automatically qualifies for the higher status of an LBD, because not all such dresses are considered chic enough. In fact, in order to qualify as an LBD, a dress must meet certain rigid criteria.
Length—The dress should be short (the very reason it’s referred to as The Little Black Dress
,) so it should generally sit on or above the knee and should be no longer than calf-length. (However, as with all rules there are exceptions—see page 18.)
Cut—Simplicity is the key to this classic design, but you also need to take into consideration that the dress must be flattering. The shift is the most common shape for the LBD, as it possesses clean lines that suit the majority of body types. Women with a fuller figure may prefer to opt for a wrap dress as this will accentuate their curves. Another crucial factor is that the dress should be traditional in style rather than at the cutting-edge of fashion. Chanel once said Fashion passes, style remains,
so steer clear of trend-setting dresses that only last for one season. Your LBD is required to stand the test of time.
Fabric—LBDs come in an assortment of materials and there is no real hard and fast rule regarding which you should choose. Some say Chanel’s first LBD was produced from silk and featured a slashed neckline, while others believe it was made from wool, had long sleeves for daytime, and came in other variations in a choice of satin, crêpe, or velvet for the evening. So the choice of fabric is really up to the individual, although it’s important always to select a material that is flattering to the figure. Silk and satin are both excellent choices as they work well for all sizes, and they look great for daywear, and glamorous for the evening.
Embellishments—The LBD can feature embellishments, but nothing over the top or too heavy. Beading, lace, chiffon, or sequins are all perfectly acceptable, but only if they, too, are black or in a complementary color, and are used economically rather than cover the whole dress.
Sexiness—One of the most important rules of all is that the LBD has to be sexy but still sophisticated and elegant. The LBD needs to celebrate your curves, showcase your legs, and honor your neckline, shoulders, and arms. However, never try to squeeze into a smaller size than normal, which is so tight that very little is left to the imagination, or raise the hemline to just below the buttocks, as this is not elegant sexiness but instead gives out a very different message.
Investment—It is worth paying a little more for the perfect LBD, as good quality shows. Invest wisely and the dress should last a lifetime (or at least until it no longer fits and you need to reinvest in a new one.)
Versatility—I’m sure you have found yourself staring into the depths of your closet crying, I have nothing to wear,
as you desperately seek something for that special event, only to emerge once again with your old, faithful LBD gripped firmly in your hands. The beauty of the LBD is that it is versatile enough to be worn to almost any occasion, as we’ll see in the next
